Usually a failed charger, charging port, or battery, and sometimes the motherboard.

If you smell burning, see smoke, or notice the case or trackpad bulging, unplug the charger and stop. A swollen battery is a fire risk.

1. Check the charger is firmly plugged into both the laptop and a wall outlet you know works.
2. Skip power strips and surge protectors and plug straight into the wall.
3. Look for any light near the charging port or on the charger itself.
4. Unplug the charger and every USB device. Hold the power button for 30 seconds. Plug the charger back in and press power once.
5. Look closely at the charging port and cable for bent pins, lint, or damage. Do not poke inside with metal.
6. If you have a matching charger (same voltage and wattage) borrow it to rule out a bad adapter.
7. Leave it on the charger for 30 minutes, then try again.

If it still shows no sign of life with a known-good charger, the cause is usually the charging port, battery, or motherboard. These need a bench repair.

Most often a failed power supply or a loose power connection, less often the motherboard.

Never open the power supply box itself. Only a trained technician should.

1. Make sure the switch on the back of the power supply is set to I (on).
2. Check the power cable is firmly seated at the computer and the wall.
3. Plug a lamp or phone charger into the same outlet to confirm it has power.
4. Try a different power cable, and bypass any surge protector.
5. Unplug everything except the power cable, monitor, and keyboard.
6. With the power cable unplugged, hold the power button for 15 seconds. Plug in and try again.
7. Look for any small light on the motherboard through the case. A lit light means the power supply is likely fine.

If you hear a click but nothing starts, a failing power supply or motherboard is the usual cause.

Overheating, a failing power supply, or faulty memory are the usual causes.

1. Feel for hot air from the vents. If it is very hot, the system is likely overheating.
2. Power off, unplug, and clear dust from vents and fans with compressed air. Hold fans still while you spray.
3. Laptop: use it on a hard flat surface, not a bed or couch.
4. Install all Windows updates (Settings > Windows Update).
5. Check for the cause: press Windows+R, type eventvwr, open Windows Logs > System, and look for “Kernel-Power” entries.
6. Run mdsched (Windows Memory Diagnostic) and let it restart and test.
7. Run a full scan in Windows Security (Virus & threat protection > Scan options > Full scan).

Shutdowns without a blue screen are most often heat, a failing power supply, or failing memory.

Batteries wear out with charge cycles, and heavy background apps make it worse.

1. Open Command Prompt as administrator and run powercfg /batteryreport. Open the HTML file it creates.
2. Compare “Design capacity” with “Full charge capacity”. If full charge is under about 60% of design, the battery is worn.
3. Lower screen brightness and turn off keyboard backlight.
4. Press Ctrl+Shift+Esc, open the Processes tab, and look for apps using lots of CPU. Close or uninstall them.
5. Turn on Battery Saver (Settings > System > Power & battery).
6. Disable unneeded startup apps (Task Manager > Startup apps).

Laptop batteries typically wear out in 2–4 years. Many are replaceable at a repair shop.

Windows files may be damaged, an update failed, or the drive is failing.

Do not choose “Reset this PC” or reinstall Windows until your important files are backed up. Doing so can erase them.

1. Unplug USB drives, SD cards, printers, and other devices, then restart.
2. If Windows shows “Automatic Repair”, let it finish and try Startup Repair if offered.
3. From the recovery screen choose Advanced options > Startup Settings > Restart > Safe Mode.
4. If Safe Mode works, use it to run System Restore (search “Create a restore point”).
5. If Safe Mode works, copy your important files to an external drive before doing anything else.
6. If you hear clicking or grinding, power off and stop.

A boot failure can be a damaged Windows install or a failing drive. A technician can tell which, and can often rescue your files either way.

A weak or wrong charger, a battery driver glitch, or a worn battery or charging port.

1. Confirm the charger light is on and the plug is firmly in the laptop and the wall.
2. Try a different outlet and check the cable for bends, cuts, or heat.
3. Use a charger with the correct wattage. A weaker one may keep the laptop running but not charge it.
4. In Device Manager, expand Batteries, uninstall “Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery”, then restart with the charger connected.
5. Install BIOS and chipset updates from your laptop maker.
6. Run powercfg /batteryreport in an administrator Command Prompt and check the battery’s health.

If a known-good charger still does not charge it, the charging port or battery needs replacing.

Beep patterns are the motherboard’s way of reporting memory, graphics, or power faults.

1. Count the beeps and note whether they are short or long. Your motherboard manual lists the meaning.
2. Power off and unplug. Reseat the memory sticks firmly, one at a time.
3. Reseat the graphics card and its power cable.
4. Unplug extra drives, cards, and USB devices, then try again.
5. Clear dust from the case and fans.
6. Try booting with only one memory stick installed.

Too many startup programs, a nearly full or aging drive, or malware are the usual causes.

1. Restart the computer fully (Start > Power > Restart). “Shut down” with Fast Startup does not do the same thing.
2. Press Ctrl+Shift+Esc. If CPU, Memory, or Disk sits near 100%, note which program is using it.
3. Open the Startup apps tab and disable anything you do not need at login.
4. Check free space (Settings > System > Storage). Under 10% free slows Windows down.
5. Install all Windows updates.
6. Run a full scan in Windows Security.
7. Uninstall toolbars and programs you do not use (Settings > Apps).

If it still crawls and you have a mechanical hard drive, upgrading to an SSD is the single biggest speed boost.

Outdated software, damaged system files, overheating, or failing hardware.

1. Note whether it is one program or everything. One program usually means that program needs updating or reinstalling.
2. Install Windows updates and update the problem program.
3. Run sfc /scannow in an administrator Command Prompt and let it finish.
4. Check temperatures: if the fan is loud and the case is hot, clean the vents.
5. Press Windows+R, type perfmon /rel to open Reliability Monitor. Look for repeating errors.
6. Try a clean boot: run msconfig, Services > Hide all Microsoft services > Disable all, restart, and test.

Typically a bad driver, faulty memory, or a failing drive.

1. Take a photo of the blue screen, especially the STOP code (for example MEMORY_MANAGEMENT).
2. Unplug any hardware you added recently and restart.
3. Install all Windows updates and driver updates.
4. Uninstall software or drivers you installed just before the problem started.
5. Run mdsched to test memory.
6. Run sfc /scannow, then DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth in an administrator Command Prompt.
7. Try System Restore to a date before the blue screens began.

Send us the photo of the STOP code. It speeds up diagnosis a lot.

A damaged update cache, low disk space, or corrupted system files.

1. Leave it alone for an hour. Large updates can look frozen.
2. Restart, then check Settings > Windows Update again.
3. Make sure you have at least 15 GB free on the C: drive.
4. Run Settings > System > Troubleshoot > Other troubleshooters > Windows Update.
5. Unplug USB drives and extra devices.
6. Run DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth then sfc /scannow in an administrator Command Prompt.

A failed backlight, loose screen cable, or graphics fault. If an external screen works, the laptop itself is fine.

1. Shine a flashlight at the screen. If you can faintly see Windows, the backlight has failed.
2. Press the brightness-up key (Fn + brightness).
3. Plug in an external monitor or TV with HDMI. If it shows a picture, the laptop screen or cable is the problem.
4. Press Windows+Ctrl+Shift+B to restart the graphics driver.
5. Unplug the charger and USB devices, hold the power button for 30 seconds, then power on again.

If an external monitor works, your laptop is fine and only the screen needs repair.

A loose cable, the wrong input, or a poorly seated memory module or graphics card.

1. Check the monitor is on and set to the correct input (HDMI, DisplayPort, etc.).
2. Try a different video cable, and a different monitor or TV if you have one.
3. If your desktop has a separate graphics card, plug the cable into the card, not the motherboard.
4. Power off and unplug. Reseat the memory sticks firmly (touch the metal case first to discharge static).
5. Hold the power button 15 seconds with the cable unplugged, then try again.
6. Listen for beeps at startup. A repeating beep pattern points to memory or graphics.

Usually a loose or worn cable, a graphics driver problem, or a failing screen.

1. Try an external monitor. If it looks fine there, your built-in screen or its cable is the problem.
2. Desktop: try a different video cable and a different monitor.
3. Update graphics drivers from your computer or graphics card maker’s site.
4. Change the refresh rate (Settings > System > Display > Advanced display).
5. Press Windows+Ctrl+Shift+B to restart the graphics driver.
6. Laptop: gently flex the screen open and closed. If the picture changes, a cable is loose or worn.

Impact damages the display panel, which can only be replaced, not repaired.

Do not press on the screen or keep using it. Cracks spread, and glass can cut you. Shut the laptop down.

1. Shut the laptop down and unplug it.
2. If you need your files, plug in an external monitor to see your desktop and copy what you need.
3. Avoid closing the lid with pressure on the damaged area.

Screen replacement is a hands-on repair. A quote comes first, and your files are not affected.

A cable or port problem, or a graphics driver that has not detected the display.

1. Press Windows+P and choose Duplicate or Extend.
2. Check both ends of the cable are firm and try a different cable or port.
3. Open Settings > System > Display and click Detect under Multiple displays.
4. Update graphics drivers.
5. Restart with the monitor already connected and turned on.

Your internet provider, the modem or router, or a software setting on this computer.

1. Check whether your phone or another device works on the same network. If none do, the problem is the modem, router, or internet provider.
2. Unplug the modem and router for 30 seconds, then plug the modem in first, then the router. Wait 3 minutes.
3. Make sure Airplane mode is off and Wi-Fi is on.
4. Run Settings > System > Troubleshoot > Other troubleshooters > Internet Connections.
5. In an administrator Command Prompt run ipconfig /release, ipconfig /renew, then ipconfig /flushdns.
6. Still stuck? Run netsh winsock reset and restart.
7. Forget your Wi-Fi network (Settings > Network > Wi-Fi > Manage known networks) and reconnect.

If other devices also have no internet after restarting the modem, call your internet provider.

Weak signal, interference, power-saving settings, or an outdated Wi-Fi driver.

1. Move closer to the router to see whether distance is the cause.
2. Restart your router.
3. Forget the network and reconnect.
4. In Device Manager open Network adapters > your Wi-Fi adapter > Properties > Power Management. Untick “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power”.
5. Update the Wi-Fi driver from your computer maker’s support page.
6. If your router offers both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, try the other one.
7. Try a cheap USB Wi-Fi adapter to see whether the built-in one is failing.

A congested network, a background program using bandwidth, or malware.

1. Compare with your phone on the same Wi-Fi. If the phone is fast, the problem is this computer.
2. Run a speed test on this computer. If you can, plug in with an Ethernet cable and test again.
3. Press Ctrl+Shift+Esc and open the Performance tab, then Ethernet or Wi-Fi, to see whether something is hogging bandwidth.
4. Restart the modem and router.
5. Run a full scan in Windows Security.
6. Try a different browser and disable browser extensions you do not recognize.

A bad cable or port, a driver problem, or a network setting that needs a reset.

1. Check for blinking lights where the cable plugs in. No light means a bad cable, port, or switch.
2. Try a different Ethernet cable and a different port on the router.
3. Run netsh int ip reset in an administrator Command Prompt and restart.
4. In Device Manager open Network adapters > Ethernet adapter > Advanced. If you see “Energy Efficient Ethernet”, set it to Disabled.
5. Update the network driver from your computer or motherboard maker.
6. Try a USB Ethernet adapter to test whether the built-in port has failed.

The wrong output device, a muted setting, or a driver problem.

1. Check the volume is up and not muted, and nothing is muted in the app you are using.
2. Click the speaker icon in the taskbar and make sure the right output device is selected.
3. Plug in headphones. If they work, the speakers or speaker connection is the issue.
4. Desktop: check the speaker cable is in the green jack, and the speakers are plugged in and turned on.
5. Run Settings > System > Sound > Troubleshoot common sound problems.
6. Press Windows+R, type services.msc, find Windows Audio, right-click and choose Restart.
7. Reinstall the audio driver from your computer or motherboard maker.

Audio enhancements, the wrong audio format, a driver problem, or electrical interference.

1. Test in a different app or website to see if it is one program.
2. Open Sound settings > your device > Properties and turn Audio enhancements off.
3. In Advanced, try a different format (for example 24 bit, 48000 Hz).
4. Update or reinstall the audio driver.
5. Move USB chargers, phones, and other electronics away from the cables.
6. Desktop: try a different audio cable or port.

Privacy settings, the wrong input device, or a muted app are the usual causes.

1. Open Settings > Privacy & security > Microphone and make sure access is on for your apps.
2. In Settings > System > Sound, choose the correct input device and watch the level bar while you speak.
3. Check the app itself (Zoom, Teams, etc.) for its own microphone setting.
4. Look for a mute switch or key (often a microphone key in the Fn row).
5. Update the audio driver.
6. Try a USB headset to test whether the built-in mic has failed.

Debris, a software setting, a driver problem, or liquid damage.

If liquid was spilled on the laptop, shut it down, unplug it, and do not turn it back on. Power plus liquid can destroy the motherboard.

1. Plug in a USB keyboard. If it works, the problem is the laptop keyboard.
2. Restart the laptop.
3. Turn off Sticky Keys and Filter Keys (Settings > Accessibility > Keyboard).
4. In Device Manager, uninstall the Keyboard entry and restart so Windows reinstalls it.
5. Turn the laptop upside down and use compressed air around the keys.
6. Check whether the keys work in the BIOS screen at startup (usually F2 or Delete). If not, it is hardware.

A dead battery, a loose receiver, or a failing port or device.

1. Try a different USB port, ideally on the back of the computer.
2. Wireless: replace the batteries and re-plug the receiver.
3. Try a different keyboard or mouse. If a different one works, the first one has failed.
4. Test the device on another computer.
5. In Device Manager, look for devices with a yellow warning icon.
6. Restart. If nothing works even in the BIOS screen, the USB ports may have failed.

A driver problem, power-saving settings, or a damaged port.

1. Try a different USB device and a different port.
2. Restart the computer.
3. In Device Manager, expand Universal Serial Bus controllers, uninstall the entries, and restart so Windows reinstalls them.
4. Open Power Options > Change plan settings > Advanced > USB settings and disable USB selective suspend.
5. Look at the ports for bent pins, debris, or damage.
6. Desktop: if front ports fail but the back ports work, the front panel cable may be loose.

Dust-clogged vents, a worn fan, or dried-out thermal paste.

1. Power off and unplug. Clear dust from the vents and fans with compressed air, holding the fan blades still.
2. Laptop: use a hard flat surface. A cooling pad can help.
3. Press Ctrl+Shift+Esc and look for a program using constant high CPU. Close or uninstall it.
4. Install Windows and BIOS updates.
5. Desktop: check every fan spins and that cables are not blocking airflow.
6. Run a full scan in Windows Security. Cryptocurrency miners and malware cause constant heat.

If it stays hot after cleaning, the thermal paste or a failing fan likely needs replacing, which is a bench repair.

Usually a stuck print queue, a network change, or an outdated driver.

1. Confirm the printer is on, has paper and ink, and shows no error lights.
2. Wi-Fi printers: make sure the printer and computer are on the same network.
3. Open Settings > Bluetooth & devices > Printers & scanners, select the printer, and clear the print queue.
4. Press Windows+R, type services.msc, find Print Spooler, right-click and choose Restart.
5. Remove the printer and add it again.
6. Install the latest driver from the printer maker’s website.

A disabled setting, a function-key toggle, a driver problem, or a failing touchpad.

1. Plug in a USB mouse so you can keep working and confirm the rest of the laptop is fine.
2. Look for a touchpad key in the top row (often F6 to F9, sometimes with Fn) and press it once.
3. Open Settings > Bluetooth & devices > Touchpad and make sure it is turned on.
4. In Device Manager, expand Mice and other pointing devices, uninstall the touchpad, and restart.
5. Clean the touchpad with a dry cloth and make sure your fingers are dry.
6. Install the latest touchpad driver from your laptop maker’s support page.

Bluetooth turned off, a stale pairing, or an outdated driver.

1. Make sure Airplane mode is off and Bluetooth is on (Settings > Bluetooth & devices).
2. Charge the device and put it into pairing mode.
3. Remove the device from your PC and pair it again from scratch.
4. Press Windows+R, type services.msc, find Bluetooth Support Service, and choose Restart.
5. Update the Bluetooth driver from your computer maker.
6. Desktop: confirm you have a Bluetooth adapter. Many desktops do not have one built in.

Camera privacy settings, another app using the camera, or a driver problem.

1. Check Settings > Privacy & security > Camera and allow camera access for apps.
2. Close other apps that might be using the camera (Zoom, Teams, browsers).
3. Look for a physical shutter or a camera key in the top row.
4. Open the Camera app. If it works there, check the settings in the other app.
5. In Device Manager, uninstall the entry under Cameras and restart.
6. External webcam: try another USB port and another cable.

Adware or a malicious browser extension, often installed alongside free software.

Do not click inside the pop-ups or call any phone number shown in them.

1. Close the browser. If it will not close, press Ctrl+Shift+Esc, select it, and click End task.
2. Reopen the browser and remove extensions you do not recognize (browser menu > Extensions).
3. In browser Settings > Privacy > Site settings > Notifications, remove sites you do not know.
4. Reset browser settings to default.
5. Open Settings > Apps and uninstall programs you do not recognize or did not install.
6. Run a full scan in Windows Security, then a Microsoft Defender Offline scan.
7. If you typed any passwords while this was happening, change them from a different, clean device.

These infections often come back if the cause is not fully removed. A professional cleanup also checks for hidden remote-access tools.

Scammers use fake alerts to scare people into calling and handing over remote access.

Microsoft and Apple never show warnings with a phone number. Do not call it, do not pay, and do not let anyone connect to your computer.

1. Do not call the number or click anything in the window.
2. Press Ctrl+Alt+Delete, open Task Manager, select the browser, and click End task. Restart the computer.
3. If the alert returns after restart, open your browser and clear its history and site data for “all time”.
4. If you already let someone connect: disconnect from the internet now, uninstall any remote-access program they had you install (such as AnyDesk, TeamViewer, or UltraViewer), and change passwords from another device.
5. If you paid or gave card details, call your bank right away. Report the scam at reportfraud.ftc.gov.
6. Run a full scan in Windows Security.

If someone had remote access, treat the computer as compromised until it has been professionally checked.

Malware usually arrives through a bad download, an email attachment, or a fake update.

1. Disconnect from the internet if the computer is acting strangely (turn off Wi-Fi or unplug the cable).
2. Run a full scan in Windows Security (Virus & threat protection > Scan options > Full scan).
3. Then run a Microsoft Defender Offline scan, which checks before Windows fully starts.
4. Open Settings > Apps and uninstall anything you do not recognize.
5. Check Startup apps in Task Manager and disable anything unfamiliar.
6. Install Windows updates and update your browser.
7. Change your important passwords from a different, clean device.

Ransomware locks your files and demands payment, often after a phishing email.

Disconnect from the internet and your network now. Do not plug in backup drives, because they can be encrypted too. Do not pay.

1. Turn off Wi-Fi and unplug the network cable immediately.
2. Do not delete the ransom note or the locked files, and do not reinstall Windows. They can help with recovery.
3. Take a photo of the ransom message with your phone.
4. Do not connect external drives or cloud-sync tools.
5. Report it at ic3.gov, the FBI’s internet crime center.

Time matters. Call us before changing anything else.

Passwords reused from a data breach, phishing, or malware on your device.

1. From a different, clean device, change the password for the affected account.
2. Turn on two-step verification (an authenticator app is best).
3. Sign out of all other sessions in the account’s security settings.
4. Check recovery email, phone number, and any forwarding rules or filters the attacker may have added.
5. Change the password on any other account that reused the same password.
6. Run a full scan on your own computer in case something is logging your keystrokes.
7. Watch bank and card activity for a few weeks.

If the same computer is used to log in, scan it first. Otherwise a new password can be captured again.

Phishing messages try to steal passwords or install malware the moment you click.

If you typed a password or downloaded a file, act quickly. Start with the first two steps.

1. Disconnect from the internet (turn off Wi-Fi or unplug the cable) if you downloaded or ran anything.
2. If you entered a password, change it right away from a different, clean device. Then change it anywhere else you used it.
3. Turn on two-step verification for that account.
4. Run a full scan in Windows Security, then a Microsoft Defender Offline scan.
5. Open Settings > Apps and remove anything you do not recognize.
6. Watch your bank and card activity. Report the message as phishing in your email app.

If you gave away financial details, call your bank before doing anything else.

A loose cable, a failed drive, or a damaged partition.

If the drive clicks, grinds, or beeps, power off and stop. Each attempt to power it on can cause more damage.

1. Try a different USB port and cable if it is an external drive.
2. Desktop: check the power and data cables are firm at both ends and try a different SATA port.
3. Press Windows+X > Disk Management. See whether the drive appears there, even without a letter.
4. Check whether the drive appears in the BIOS screen at startup.
5. Try the drive in a different computer or enclosure.
6. Do not format or initialize the drive if it contains files you need.

A drive that appears but shows “Unallocated” or “RAW” often still has recoverable data. Stop writing to it.

Clicking usually means the moving parts inside a hard drive are failing.

Power the computer off now and leave it off. Do not open the drive or try to freeze it. Every minute running makes a recovery harder.

1. Shut the computer down and unplug it.
2. Do not turn it back on to “test” it.
3. Do not run repair tools or scans on the drive.
4. Make a note of what is on it and which files matter most, so recovery can be prioritized.

Clicking almost always means a mechanical failure. Physical drive cases are handled locally, or shipped in on a case-by-case basis.

Deleted files often stay on the drive until overwritten, so acting fast matters.

Stop saving or installing anything on that drive. New data can overwrite what you want back.

1. Open the Recycle Bin and search for the files.
2. Check your cloud service’s recycle bin or version history (OneDrive, Google Drive, iCloud, Dropbox).
3. Right-click the folder that held the files and choose Properties > Previous Versions.
4. Search the whole computer by file name (File Explorer search box).
5. Check any backup you have (Windows Backup, File History, external drive).
6. Do not install recovery software on the same drive that held the files.

Downloads, temporary files, and large media gradually fill the drive.

1. Open Settings > System > Storage and see what is using the most space.
2. Turn on Storage Sense, and click Temporary files to clear them.
3. Empty the Recycle Bin.
4. Uninstall programs and games you do not use.
5. Move photos and videos to an external drive or cloud storage. Keep a second copy before deleting anything.
6. Run Disk Cleanup (search “Disk Cleanup”) and choose Clean up system files.

Drives fail without warning, so extra copies are what actually protect your files.

1. Aim for 3 copies of important files: the original, a copy on an external drive, and a copy in the cloud or off-site.
2. Plug in an external drive and turn on File History (Settings > System > Storage > Advanced storage settings > Backup options).
3. Turn on OneDrive folder backup for Desktop, Documents, and Pictures if you use a Microsoft account.
4. Copy irreplaceable files (family photos, tax records) to a second place by hand.
5. Test the backup by opening a few files from it.
6. Repeat this regularly, or set up automatic backups.

A full system image lets you restore everything, including Windows and programs, after a drive failure.

Too many extensions or tabs, a bloated cache, or malware.

1. Update the browser to the latest version and restart it.
2. Open the browser’s own task manager (Shift+Esc in Chrome and Edge) and close heavy tabs.
3. Disable extensions you do not use or recognize.
4. Clear cached images and files from the browser settings.
5. Try a fresh browser profile to see if the problem follows your profile.
6. Run a full scan in Windows Security.

A changed password, full mailbox, wrong server settings, or a damaged mail profile.

1. Log in to your email on the provider’s website. If that fails, the account itself needs attention.
2. Check your mailbox is not full.
3. If you recently changed your password, update it in your mail app.
4. Remove the account from the mail app and add it again.
5. Outlook: start it in safe mode by running outlook /safe to rule out add-ins.
6. Check your provider’s website for the correct server settings.

Microsoft ended free security updates for Windows 10 in October 2025, so an unsupported PC is more exposed over time.

Back up your files before any upgrade. Do not use tricks that turn off Windows security checks to force an upgrade.

1. Open Settings > Windows Update and see whether the Windows 11 upgrade is offered.
2. Run Microsoft’s PC Health Check app to see whether your PC meets the Windows 11 requirements.
3. Back up your important files to an external drive or cloud storage.
4. If the upgrade is offered, install it on a stable power source and let it finish.
5. If your PC does not qualify, check Microsoft’s website for any extended update options for Windows 10.
6. Keep your browser and antivirus updated either way.

If your PC is too old for Windows 11, a hardware upgrade or a replacement is often more cost-effective than fighting it.

A forgotten password or PIN, or a Microsoft account that needs verification.

Avoid “password cracker” downloads. Many are malware.

1. On the sign-in screen, choose “I forgot my password” or “I forgot my PIN” and follow the prompts.
2. If you use a Microsoft account, go to account.live.com/password/reset from another device.
3. Local account: answer your security questions if you set them.
4. Try signing in with any other administrator account on the computer.
5. If none of these work, stop. Do not reinstall Windows, because that would erase your files.

A technician can often help you regain access without losing your data.